Frogs are evil

There is a specific kind of magic to summer days during uni break—the long, empty hours where you end up driving down back roads near the farm looking for something strange. Back in the summer of 2003, my brother and I went hunting for a local legend tucked away in the trees near Llangernyw: Hafodunos Hall.

We slipped in through the main gates, instantly stepping out of the summer sunshine and into something that felt like a set from a hammer horror film. That strange, almost gothic energy could only come from a place like Hafodunos.

The Grand Venetian Gothic Exterior

Walking around the outside, the place was overwhelmingly atmospheric. It wasn’t just old; it was aggressively, dramatically Gothic—towering stone, intricate carved inscriptions along the exterior walls, massive heavy doors, a imposing central tower, and wild, sprawling grounds that had long since surrendered to nature. The grandeur of Hafodunos surrounded us at every turn.

A Brief History: From 1600s Roots to a Venetian Masterpiece

The original Hafodunos estate dates back to the 1600s, but the grand structure we were staring up at was built between 1861 and 1866. Designed by the legendary Victorian architect Sir George Gilbert Scott for the Sandbach family, it was built in a stunning Venetian Gothic Revival style. The distinctiveness of Hafodunos makes its history especially fascinating.

Over the decades, the hall lived several completely different lives. After the family left in the 1930s, it served as a girls’ boarding school for decades, then later an accountancy college, and eventually a care home before being abandoned in the 1990s. By the time we turned up in 2003, it sat completely desolate, rotting quietly in the woods, a true relic of Hafodunos lost in time.

Stepping Inside: Rotting Floors and Haunted Shadows

We managed to find a way inside, moving as quietly as possible. The primary rule of urban exploration is not getting caught, but here, the bigger danger was underfoot. Decades of damp meant the floorboards were severely rotting away in places. Every step had to be tested before putting weight on it—one bad tread and you were going straight through into the void below. It’s adventures like exploring Hafodunos that really define that summer for me.

The interior was vast and unnervingly quiet. We navigated echoing corridors, grand reception rooms with peeling wallpaper, and down into the pitch-black basement level. Down there, hidden in the shadows, was an old prayer room that sent absolute chills down your spine. The whole place radiated a heavy, lingering haunted energy, a signature atmosphere of Hafodunos.

The Mystery Tunnel

While exploring the grounds outside, we stumbled across something straight out of a gothic novel: a stone tunnel leading from the gardens back towards the house. Looking down into the dark opening, the passageway looked partially caved in and blocked by debris. Whether it was an old service conduit, an escape route, or an underground access tunnel for servants, staring into that dark hole was one of the highlights of the explore. It was the mystery at the heart of Hafodunos that kept us wondering long after we left.

Tragedy and Rebirth: The Fire and Restoration

Looking back, our 2003 visit happened in the absolute nick of time. Just a year later, in October 2004, tragedy struck Hafodunos Hall. A devastating arson attack tore through the empty building, gutting the roof, collapsing the internal floors, and leaving Scott’s Venetian masterpiece as a hollowed-out, blackened shell. Few sites in North Wales evoke as much emotion as Hafodunos after the fire.

For years, it sat as a tragic ruin. But in 2010, a private buyer bought the estate with a vision to bring it back to life. Over the last decade, an ambitious restoration project has been underway—stabilising the masonry, rebuilding the roofs, and preserving one of North Wales’ most incredible architectural treasures. Hafodunos is finally emerging from the ashes.

Our trek through those rotting halls in 2003 remains one of my favourite urban exploration memories with my brother—a snapshot of a lost giant right before it nearly disappeared forever. Hafodunos will always be a part of our story.

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